Twin Spark Berlina

[AikenDrum105]

Agree with Luke 100%..  I tried a couple of alignment shops (both ill and well reputed)  and they used the drivers side link to center the steering wheel and set d/s toe,  then the pass side link to toe the other side.   

if the d/s and p/s links aren't close in length,  the ackerman geometry is thrown out, so it will turn in faster on one side compared to the other.   

I was sceptical -  but tried a method to align the car myself   - flat ground,  4 large floor tiles, some grease and a $40 laser level from bunnings.    it takes a little time but is very rewarding.

Jack up the front of the car,  stick two tiles on the ground under the front wheels, shiny side up.    grease the shiny side liberally, put the other tile on top shiny side down, then lower the front wheels onto the tile sandwich.  the grease lets them settle out to a normal rest position, and makes it easy to turn them when adjusting.

lock the steering wheel centered with the contraption of choice.

then you make up a mount (timber / steel etc)  that will let you hold the laser level against the rear rim (not tyre)  pointing forwards - hold it on the wheel with a ocky strap or similar,  and then use a tape measure / ruler off the front and rear edge of the front wheel - the laser will hit the ruler and show if that wheel is true to the rear.  adjust the drivers side link to get those measurements the same, you will have that wheel setup with zero toe.   you can choose to set a little toe in or out depending on application

measure the length of the drivers side link, ball joint centre to ball joint centre and then   adjust the passenger one to match, then using the laser on the opposite rear wheel - adjust the center link until you have the same toe on the passenger side front wheel.

bear in mind this difference from the front to rear of the front rim is not the toe in mm  - to work that out you need some trig and imaginary numbers like eleventeen, and thirty-twelve.

basically it's the same as the string method, with less setup time and with frickin' lasers !

Obviously this aligns the front wheels against the thrust angle of the rear - if your rear end is all out of whack,  you'll still end up with a car that steers well, but crabs along.   If you have a bent rear wheel or axle stub it will throw the laser out too..     Last time I did the alignment, (it was miles out of true)  first go got it close,  second go got the steering wheel centred, and my last go was a tiny adjustment on the toe.   

Anyway - hope that helps  - I'm sure there are a few wizer denizens of the forums who can do it with some blu-tack and a rock

cheers,

[Divano Veloce]

Thanks guys!

Alas the steering box is at the doctors for some major repairs. In hindsight i should have replaced it. It had the tri-fecta - pitted steering shaft races, excess wear between the nut and rocker and some big cracks.

I should have it back tonight for install over the weekend.

Brakes are apart too, they will be off to be electroplated next week. So at least another week or two before its driving again.....

[Divano Veloce]

Steering box photos:

the usual lower bearing inner race

the upper bearing inner race

new lower bush and box machined for a lip seal

[Divano Veloce]

the case was cracked at three of the four threaded holes and required welding. THis required the top and front flange to be re-machined and the inner diameter re-bored.


skf 30303J2 bearing installed. The timken bearing mentioned elsewhere is a better fit

[Divano Veloce]

refirbed suspension ready to go back in



brake piston removal using the grease gun method. the pair of bolts and nuts are keeping the lose piston from moving, forcing the stuck piston free


brake calipers prior to diy hot tank and plating

[Divano Veloce]

front end going back together


i know, the car is filthy....

[Davidm1600]

   Too true,  so a real pity not to be able to take advantage of giving the inner wheel wells a sprucing up before re-installing all that nice shiny stuff.  But sadly I guess time, and the need perhaps to get the Berlina back on the road is working against you. 

BTW it is a very  berlina !!

[AikenDrum105]

I can promise the new bits will quickly match the old bits 

Great work !

[Divano Veloce]

Calipers are back from the platers




I'm very happy with the result!

[AikenDrum105]

Spectacular !

[Divano Veloce]

Thanks Scott. The plating was done by bendigo electroplaters, $80 for the calipers and nuts/bolts/bleeders.

with pistons and seals

[Divano Veloce]

Here i've ground then punched out the old idler shaft. Unfortunately I didnt photograph the reassembly process but what I did was as follows:
Tap the new idler shaft into the idler arm then assemble the whole thing with all the trust washers and the top nut and washer (ensuring that the thust washers are located on the roll pins). I then, using a hydraulic press pressed the new shaft in until all clearance was taken up. I removed it from the press and checked for smooth rotation. All good! I then replicated the original weld.

[Divano Veloce]

suspension and brakes back together

[Divano Veloce]

Steering box finally back together!


where the magic happens (where i make time dissapear!!)

[AikenDrum105]

Shed..... So..... Big......   

Great work on the box and idler !   I've never done a complete idler rebuild like that,  really interesting to see - and that box is going to be a jewel !

Cheers,

Scott.