Hydraulic lines and fittings - supplier ?

[AikenDrum105]

Hi all, 

Going to be renewing most of the hydraulic lines and fittings on the Super in the next few weeks - have done a fair bit of research on the alfabb and these forums for the correct fitting sizes / flare types etc. 

Anyone have any recommendations for a supplier in Oz they've used for line / fittings / flaring tools ? 

Have read great things about the Cunifer line as well - but haven't found anyone in Oz who markets it...  Brakequip apparently have a 316 tube that's not too difficult to bend...

A few more learned folks than myself have recommended taking the line lengths / fitting and flare type to the local brake place and having them made up as the path of least resistance - rather than buying a couple of rolls of pipe, tube cutters and benders etc - I'll most likely do that - but I always tend to try and have all the bits and pieces on hand when the moment takes me so I can muck it up  do it myself there and then

Cheers,

Scott.

[MD]

Not the easiest job to do neatly.  A few things come in handy such as plain wire that you can bend into the template and gauge for length of your actual tube. Also a small tube bender like the plumbers use comes in handy to form neat bends without crushing the apex. Need lots of practice to get the bend just in the right place.

When doing the flaring, it is a good idea to place a small drop of oil at the tool tip but be sure it is a small drop that  can be wiped clean when the flare is done. Not a good idea to have oil in the brake line!

Did the reticulation on my racer. The end result certainly works and the layout is passable but I wouldn't call it great. On the other hand it is much better than the professional wanker's efforts on my first racer.

Plated steel lines is what I would suggest for a cost effective job. About $25 for a roll of 6 metres or so.

I have only ever made single flare connections. For that you need:-

Flaring tool kit
Pipe cutter
Pipe bender
Fine crosscut file
Methylated spirits and compressed air to flush the fabricated line prior to installation

[aggie57]

Hi Scott,

Have done this job a few times over the years and its never one I look forward to.  After a couple of cars where we replaced one or two lines, and refinished a few to fit things like bias valves and new master cylinders, when I tackled all the lines on my 105 I bailed and took all the old ones to BGT in Hawthorn.  They gave me back a set of replacement lines which I then just bent to shape as they were fitted.  You can see the final result at the back of the engine bay in the picture below.

In the end my main advice would be to be patient.  My set of tools is pretty much the same as MD's with the addition of a double flaring tool. 

[AikenDrum105]

Thanks for the tips guys - much appreciated.   

I collected a list of line sizes and fitting threads / flares  from the alfabb  and have gone with the seamless steel lines - Cunifer (copper nickel)  that has a great following in the US,  still seems quite fiddly to get here  (govt approval and hence inflated cost from those who carry it - although two places I found no longer bother.)     

Thanks again ,

Scott.