Fuel issues?

f1fascination · September 11, 2013, 10:08:04 AM

Hi again,as previously stated I've recently fitted a new (standard) head and rebuilt the carburettors on my GTV 2000 after it was found the head was knackered.
On reassembly,it took a long time to start, and when it finally did, it only runs on the rear carburettor it seems.
It sounds as if it's only running on 2-3 cylinders, and disconnecting both number one and number two plug leads individually makes no difference to the running. It idles, but only barely.
Does it sound like a float level issue, or have I missed something else? The carb's were rebuilt using the standard jetting as the new head was all standard, though new.
The plugs are firing on one and two, as I can hear the spark arcing when I disconnect the leads, and I have swapped the plugs around to the rear cylinders and they seem fine, and make a noticeable difference to the running when disconnecting, so to me it looks like a fuel issue with the front carb. The plugs on 1 and 2 are dry when pulled out.
Any thoughts?

Mick A · September 15, 2013, 12:35:47 AM

From what you've described yes a fuel issue perhaps.

Pull the tops off the carbs and check the float chambers for fuel and level.

Colin Byrne · September 18, 2013, 08:31:06 AM

Do the other two cylinders start to come in when you rev it?

Have you synchronized the two throttle plates?

f1fascination · September 18, 2013, 02:01:17 PM

Thanks guys, it sounds like the other two pots start to come in with some rev's on, but definitely not at idle, and I haven't checked the fuel bowls or the throttle plates yet.

Mick A · September 18, 2013, 02:12:32 PM

Well do that then mate.

Colin Byrne · September 18, 2013, 02:15:54 PM

Quoteit sounds like the other two pots start to come in with some rev's on

if that's the case then definitely look at the synchronization between the two carbies
this can be done by removing the little brass plug on the top of the carbie that covers the idle bleed holes, if you shine a torch through the holes you can see the edge of the throttle plate, by lining up the throttle plates to the same hole on each of the carbies you can very accurately synchronize the two throttle plates with the screw adjuster between the two carbies

id also confirm that the idle screws are all the same amount of turns from their seat

f1fascination · September 18, 2013, 02:24:19 PM

Sounds great guys, this an excellent forum and I appreciate the great help you all provide, so many thanks!!!
I'll be sure to let you know how I go

f1fascination · September 25, 2013, 11:10:24 PM

Up and running and tuned well with a synchometer from Classic Alfa, thanks all

f1fascination · September 28, 2013, 11:04:59 PM

[i]if that's the case then definitely look at the synchronization between the two carbies
this can be done by removing the little brass plug on the top of the carbie that covers the idle bleed holes, if you shine a torch through the holes you can see the edge of the throttle plate, by lining up the throttle plates to the same hole on each of the carbies you can very accurately synchronize the two throttle plates with the screw adjuster between the two carbies[/i]

Which plug is this one guys?