GTV6 Clutch

[Paul Gulliver]

Ramblings of the Mechanically Challenged

Shane,
Chapter one could be a step by step analysis of  those famous last words " ...I Can DEFINATELY do that myself!".

Then you could move on to the sections what happened, how it happened and who is going to fix it for me now.

This by the way is coming from some one who has got the mechanical skills of Mr ED ( Oh Wilbur !!!).


Cheers


Gully

[alfagtv152]

Hi Shane,
From memory my favourite method of removal is to take the plastic covers off the steering wheel and remove the pinch bolt that tightens the height adjustment so the steering column hangs down,I then use a very long extension bar with a 6mm allen key in a socket to remove the socket head screws.Since you have already removed the clevis pin from the pedal it should come out.I have a suggested modification which I do to my cars to make it easy next time and that is to tap the holes in the pedal box to take an m8x1.25 hellicoil so that you can screw two socket head screws or bolts through from the inside such that you have enough sticking out of the pedal box to put the master back on with nuts from the engine bay.You will of course have to drill out the thread in the master itself for this,the only hard part is then putting back the spring and clevis pin in the pedal and dont forget that in my experience the master actuating shaft length is adjustable to increase or decrease pedal travel,some times you may want to adjust it just to get the take up point where you want it when everything else is correct.
Cheers
Andrew

[shane wescott]

The Beast Lives :-)

Finally got it all back together, all went in rather easy although unfortunately the rubber boot slipped off the operting shaft which means the pedal tends to hang out abit but it does work and it is driveable.

One of the things i noticed before bleeding everything is that the pickup for the clutch fluid is almost right on the line for Minimum on the brake reservoir, so I wonder if this was low in the first place :-(

Anyway I have had fun and an interesting time changing the slave and putting in a master clutch kit.

I like the idea of dropping the steerign shaft right down - maybe next time.

The beast will be at Spettacollo tomorrow, wont win any awards but it looks nice and clean and sounds as good as always :-)

[shane wescott]

Wash Up.

So what did I learn during this process:

1. Always check your brake fluid first, it needs to be around the max level to be sure to be sure (not sure if this was my original issue or not but now I have some new bits in the clutch system )

2. The Clutch slave on a GTV6 is the same as the ones on a 105, just swap over the operating shaft.

3. Repair kits don't appear to be available for the Clutch Slave.

4. You can buy good quality parts from overseas - the UK is good value at the minute so Alfaholics and Highwood Alfa can be good sources of parts.

5. Hire a spider money (hopefully one who works on the weekend) to remove the Clutch Master cylinder. At the end of the job my hands looked like I had been hunting blackberries all weekend :-(

6. Buy a nice new 6mm allen key to 10MM socket adapter (around $5) this will ensure you dont burr off the allen key bolts. Give it a bash and use a long extension to make sure you get a firm connection.

7. Remove the plastic cover around the steering shaft, and potentially take off the bracket so the shaft can drop down and give more access. I didnt do the bracket bit but it makes sense.

8. Be careful with the plastic pipe in the top of the Master it is likely to be brittle.

9. when reassembling the master with a new kit use a little bit of water based lube on the new seals to make sure the cylinder can freely move up and down - luckily i keep a good supply in the bedroom.

10. When I loosened the top 6mm Allen key I just left the extension and everything with the bolt still in the hole as it looked like a pig to get back in.

11. I invested in a good quality set of circlip[ pliers many years ago - they are worth their weight in gold and turn a dangerous time consuming job into a snap :-)

12. There is a rubber boot which fits on the head of the master cylinder. The operating shaft fits on the end of this. Once you connect the operating shaft back onto the pedal - dont pull the pedal out :-( The shaft comes out of the rubber boot, your pedal sticks out so far you have to disconnect your hip to push the pedal back down and its an absolute pig to get back on without going through the whole removal process again :-( I'll try for another few hours and then I will just say stuff it and pull the whole thing out again :-(

13. When you put the pin back through the pedal push the pin through from the driver door side so you can actually see the hole for the split pin and this also gives you a little bit more room for the job.

14. Be patient when you bleed the system and have a friend who is happy to push the pedal many times :-)

Thats it.

Tomorrow I am under the bonnet again. I had to go to Echuca this week, I was in the process of putting the Beast in the backyard as we were going in the Rav4.

Clearly the GTV6 didnt approve of this because when I kicked it over and turned on the lights it decided to blow a main fuse and wouldn't start :-(

The message I get form this is "Stuff you mate, if you dont want to drive me to Echuca you can bloody well push me into the backyard" - which my son and i did :-(

It's all about the personality of the car  :-)

Catch ya

Shane

Shane