Extractors for GTV6 2.5

[Fylnn]

I am sure this question has been raised before, but anyway, here goes.

I am building a GTV6 as a gravel rally car.  I was going to run it with pretty much standard engine and transaxle at least to begin with to see if I've got more talent than it has power or vice versa.  Been 15 years since I drive a rally car in anger.

I have the engine out for a few things and unbolted the LH exhaust manifold and the front part of one flange has cracked off.  So do I replace with another cast iron manifold or do I go with extractors?  Bear in mind need low-mid range power and torque more than absolute power at the red line.  I have read various things in AlfaBB and so on that most extractors aren't worth the effort. 

Assuming that extractors are the way to go, where do you get them in Australia?

[JOHN G]

Where is the link to the sponsors page?

[Mat Francis]

http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/content/view/20/33/

[redalfaracing]

Hey Flynn, where in Australia do you come from? We may be able to share info!

[Fylnn]

I live in Brisbane, this is the first PRC car I have ever built, although I helped build a couple of Fiats a few years back.  I travel to Melbourne reasonably often for work and to find parts, usually at Milanos.

I am at the stage of putting it all back together to see how it goes.  Started out as project with rough car with recently rebuilt engine, was going to strip it put cage in it and have a go.  But the tin ants had got to the fire wall so it grew somewhat.  I have upgraded the front brakes to RX7 4 pots, put in 28mm torsion bars from Vin Sharp got a steel cage welded in.  I was going to run standard engine and transmission to start with and sort suspensio and brakes.  But as something needs replacing or rebuilding plan to upgrade.  One day would like to put in T/S box and 3 litre. 

Suspect you are well advanced on me in terms of knowledge.  But hope to hit the forests for the 2010 season.

[redalfaracing]

I think thats the best way to go, suck it and see.  I am not sure about torsion bars. i like to keep the suspension soft to keep all the wheels on the ground, soak up the bumps not hammer over them. i intent to run standard front bars to see what it is like. from the squirts i have had around the gravel roads near home it seems ok. just going to raise it up a bit so i clear the rocks with the sump. it is important to keep plenty of droop as well. a car with very stiff suspension tends not to have much droop.

great if you posted a pic

[MD]

Flynn,

I have no experience with rally car prep but I just thinking out aloud about the future 3 litre engine. I know torque is important (when isn't it?) but the extra weight of the engine just may tip you over the balance of the car. A supercharged 2 litre could be a better option if that works in other respects for you..

[a sharp]

MD these guys are buliding Historic Rally Cars to 1980's PRC rules, you can't supercharge then.

[MD]

On the same basis, wouldn't that put the 3 litre donk out of contention?

[Fylnn]

Greg,

Could be right about the 28mm bars, they don't move much, put them in last week.  I can also get some 25mm and standard is 23mm so when it is all sorted there is a test track at Willowbank I can take it to try a few things.  Had some experience years ago with a Fiat 124 (whole different car I know) that we played around with various spring rates on the front until one day put some super stiff cut down springs in front and it transformed it.  Front just rode over everything with the rear axle soft enough to just dig in and grip.  See how the Alfa responds.  Was planning to use Koni yellows at first, since I already have them.  Can revalve as necessary.

Rules say for pre-1986 must keep same block and heads and most other things free.  So assuming (yet to confirm) that the 3.0 litre block and heads are virtually the same as the 2.5.  If the rule allowed engine swaps probably a hot twin spark would be the way to go for weight and power.

[redalfaracing]

Rules say for pre-1986 must keep same block and heads and most other things free.  So assuming (yet to confirm) that the 3.0 litre block and heads are virtually the same as the 2.5.  If the rule allowed engine swaps probably a hot twin spark would be the way to go for weight and power.

It is true that you must use original block and head(s) however, as far as i know, crank is free and wet liners are free. that is how mine will eventually be 3.0 litre. Unless you are entering AASA events... then i think it is run what you brung, if you look at the entry list of say the southern mountains rally last year there are some pretty exotic machines. There are even some CAMS events where you can run odball engines. 2009 Nissan Nightmoves introdutory trial had a RAV 4 with a v8 engine. Entered as a "ORV" other rally vehicle. You can run 1 event a year in an unlog booked car.
This is lifted from the supp regs:


INTRODUCTORY TRIAL

9.6   All vehicles must comply with the General Requirements for Rally Cars which con be found in Section 11 of the 2009
CAMS Manual.

The following equipment is deemed compulsory:
                  Roll over protection as defined in Schedule J of the 2009 CAMS Manual.
                  2 reflective triangles as per 2009 Victorian Rally Bulletin
                  Full harness seat belts for both driver and navigator as per schedule
                  First Aid Kit as per General Requirements for Rally Cars
                  Mud flaps as per General Requirements for Rally Cars
                  One or more effective extinguisher, compliant with Australian Standards 1841
                  (except AS 1841.2), must be carried and securely fitted to the vehicle and be to
                  a capacity and pressure listed in Schedule H Section 6 of the 2009 CAMS Manual.
                  Safety Helmets that must conform to CAMS requirements (e.g. AS 1698 etc.) and
                  must be worn whilst competing.
                  CAMS Log Book, except vehicle owners utilising their once per year dispensation
                  to compete without a log book   refer NCR 150.
                  All vehicles must be roadworthy and registered or subject to relevant permit by a
                  relevant road traffic authority for driving on public roads.

Knock yourself out!!!!

On suspension, do you know that Subaru outback rear springs fit the de-dion?  about 4 mm bigger in diameter but they don't give any grief. i use some pedders lift kit springs in my Alfetta. Best part is they are cheap. dont pay big money for rear springs. Also some Patrol/ Maverick springs fit too.