Brake Pads (performance Oriented)

Started by ACP, May 04, 2011, 05:48:24 PM

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ACP

Well after reviewing the video footage, the brakes definitely require more thought and modifications to reduce the pedal pressure... Then I will look into the other problems...

Given the DS3000's are already on the car... Softer pads aren't an option....

Options to reduce pedal pressure:
1. Install a booster or two...
    Need to source one, stick it in the front circuit.... Doesn't need to be an original (little of the accessories are original), just reliable, cheap and easy to source....

2. Reduce M/C size
    Not sure if this is possible need to check the current sizes...

3. Bigger front brakes (piston area)
    Are the 75's brakes bigger?
    Are ther other 'reasonable' options....

I don't have a rear pressure limiting valve in at the moment, but I don't think that would alter the pedal pressure...   

It is stopping straight and all 4 brakes are hot but none are stinky so, I know they are working pretty well.

Hmmm..

Other thoughts? 


Ap
Alfa 1967 Gulia GT Veloce 1600

Colin Byrne

Looks like you have covered most of the options for changing pedal force.  But I'll just make  a quick comment of each one as I see it.

Starting at the wheel end of the system

1.   Brake effective radius - very hard to change means new rotors, calipers/mounts
2.   Pad friction level – The DS 3000 have a relatively high mue so you've probably done all you can here, I was a bit confused by your comment about "softer" pads not being an option.  Are you talking about compressibility?, if you are you want the stiffest pads you can get to reduce pedal pressure
3.   Caliper piston size – New calipers, Can you fit the Volvo Calipers in?
4.   Master cylinder size – I've just been through this to change my Front/Rear bias.  I went to a tilton MC as they have a lot of different size options.  I'm sure Girling MC come in a range of sizes, so this is probably a good option

5.   Pedal Ratio – Not sure if there is space to do something here but if there is this could be a very simple fix.  If you are able to shift the clevis of the push rod up the brake pedal closer towards the pivot point you'll end up with a higher pedal ratio and less pedal force to get to locking pressure.  I actually designed an extra pivot arm into my system so that I could easily change this ratio and it works very well

QuoteI don't have a rear pressure limiting valve in at the moment, but I don't think that would alter the pedal pressure..

Your correct it won't and I wouldn't recommend putting one in after you've gone to all the trouble of adding a proper twin MC setup.  I've had problems in the past with pressure limiting valves working in both directions, i.e rear brakes staying engaged without pedal pressure.

Hope that helps, it's worth spending the time to get a good system
Good luck
72' 105 2000 GTV Red (tarmac rally/race car)
74' 105 2000 GTV Blue (road car)
68' 105 1600 Giulia Super White (Not sure yet)
01' Nissan Pathfinder (Tow car/Alfa support vehicle)