How to change rear engine mount on 3.0 V6?

[shiny_car]

Hi

I thought I would change the rear mount before bolting up the side mounts and plumbing in the radiator. I've read topics describing undoing the side(front) mounts then jacking up the front of the engine to pivot and tilt the rear mount downwards.

However, I can only get the rear mount to drop down 2~2.5cm at the most. One limiting factor seems to be the L camcover striking the brake booster.

That is probably enough clearance for me to cut the old rubber and gut out the centre mounting bar, then I can hand saw the outer metal ring to split it, then knock it out with a hammer and punch. Might take me a day! I don't have a hoist either; car is on stands and I'm working awkwardly on the ground.

BUT, even if I get the old one out, there isn't enough access from the side to slide the (intact) new one in, because the chassis is still in the way.

Advice appreciated, thanks. 

Sorry for the poor photo - DSLR autofocus lens has decided to pack it in. 

[shiny_car]

I read another tip on alfaowner.com, which should help with fitting the new one. Removing the metal plates that the mount bolts onto - one plate is on view in the photo, held by the two remaining bolts - should give enough clearance to line up the new mount to fit into the bell housing hole.

Knowing this, I have more confidence in 'hacking' out the old one. The same person used a Dremel with cutting discs to split the metal collar on the old one. Bit tedious, but I'll give that a go too!

[festy]

Careful use of an air chisel will get the old bush out on a minute or two without having to cut it first.
Catch the lip and drive it towards the centre, and the bush will fold in on itself and slip out.

[shiny_car]

Cheers. I read about using one of those too...but I don't have one! Car is not drivable to a workshop, so I'm left to my own devices with relatively basic tools.

Mind you, a visit to Supercheap may be in order...

[festy]

They're quite cheap at around $30 from memory, and they are brilliant for taking out frustration with 

[Sheldon McIntosh]

I know it's probably anathema to you shiny_car, but the most common fix is just to fill up the gaps in the knackered one with black silicone, as I'm sure you're aware.  (probably) Works just as well as a new one, with a LOT less effort and time involved.

No-one will ever know, except you of course, which is why I imagine you're gonna have fun changing that mount over the next little while....

Love your work.

[MD]

Agree with Sheldon and would just like to add. If you proceed to do this, ensure to position the fixing bar centrally in the housing by proping it there with whatever to you want. Likewise ensure that the stuff is fully set before rebolting to chassis.

If this approach causes an increase in vibration that is unacceptable, you will need to go back to the original mount.

[shiny_car]

Thanks everyone for the advice!

@ Sheldon: don't worry, all advice is welcome and taken onboard. Whilst I only had 'thoughts' of adding silicone to the holes, hearing that this is recommended by most of you adds weight to me doing it.

The existing bushing is pretty shot. The rubber is cracked/perished and a lot of movement by-hand. I have a new one ready to go, so I'm looking at buying a cheap compressor for now, to do the job with an air chisel. If I find that having a compressor is invaluable, I'll look at investing in a high quality one when I need to rely on it more.

[festy]

You will find that a cheap compressor is invaluable - for most jobs, a small, cheap compressor is all you'll ever need.
If you end up needing lots more air for something like painting a car, sandblasting or plasma cutting, you could always just get a second cheap compressor and plumb them together which works out a lot cheaper than buying a big compressor.

Also, if your compressor comes with an accessory kit, chuck the plastic coiled hose and probably the air fittings too, and use the blue air hose and Nitto fittings.
The coiled plastic hose kinks constantly and the small ID of the hose and fittings restrict flow - and also if you hire/borrow any air tools, they'll probably have Nitto fittings.   

Using a long air hose of decent diameter will also act like a second air tank

Get to know the air chisel on some scrap before you point it at your engine mount - it's a handheld jackhammer and will take you by surprise when you first use it.
The trick is to apply just enough pressure, otherwise it will jump around everywhere. 
And use ear plugs

[AikenDrum105]

+1 on the Nitto *and* joining cheap compressors (and their tanks) together